SOL DE BRUGÀS, Guardiola de Font-Rubi, Penedès

High in the Penedes, at an altitude of 480-500 metres (that's 1500 feet and more to those of us of a certain age) Jaume Lluch grows three red varieties - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Despite the southerly location, the altitude and the terrain are conducive to the cultivation of grapes. The soil retains water well from the sparse summer rains, and the temperatures are cool enough, particularly at night, to allow slow ripening of the grapes.

Cultivation is totally organic and Jaume is registered with the Catalan Council for Organic Agriculture. He begins fermentation almost immediately after harvesting, because his bodega is in the middle of the vines (see picture). Fermentation of the free-run juices is slow and natural and he then allows the wine to mature for three years, without oak, and allows the wine to clear without filtration.

So the wines have the maximum scent, flavour and mouthfeel of the purest fruit and terroir of their variety and location. Each variety is bottled separately, without blending.

The Merlot is a concentrated, plummy red with all the ripe fruit and soft tannins you'd expect from such a great variety. To be honest, it is the best Merlot we've tasted from either Spain or southern France and will be the 'lead wine' for us from Sol de Brugàs. Alcohol is 13.5%.

The Cabernet Sauvignon is a solid mouthful of dark berries with a whiff of tobacco such as some Chilean Cabs achieve. Alcohol is 13%.

Finally the Syrah is a gently spicy red which Jaume has done well to control in these climes. It is improving with age and although slightly more expensive than the others, worth putting a bottle or two in your order.

Jaume has plans for the building of tasting rooms and guest accommodation at the bodega which has stunning views across to the Sierra of Montserrat.

He is also developing the storage and bottling facilities. With his commitment to allowing the wines to age before bottling, and to age without oak, he needs to develop the capability to store in large plastic cubitainers, each of 1,000 litres, to enable parcels of wine to be bottled without disturbing that left behind.

Inside the bodega a resident goose keeps guard, ready to warn off both intruders and Jaume's dog, Coco.

We are delighted to be the UK Agent for such a generous and skilful winemaker as Jaume Lluch and we look forward to a long and successful collaboration, commercialising these wines of such pure and generous character.

Keith Morton with Jaume Lluch and Jaume Junior at Sol de Brugàs, December 2004

For more information about this vineyard, the wines and prices, or if you would like to purchase some of this wine, please complete our on-line enquiry form